Softback Book
Written by Tony Butt and Paul Russell.
The best presented guide to the science behind waves that we've seen. Enough depth and detail for every surfer to gain a greater understanding of how waves work, without needing a degree in physics to follow the plot. Dr Tony Butt is not only a research oceanographer but a well respected big wave charger, Paul Russell is a former European Surfing Champion and also a PHD in oceanography - probably the perfect team to explain the theory behind surf forecasting.
The book makes great use of colour photos and clear diagrams to get across complex topics like swell generation, refraction, sandbar formation and much more.
We're really going to stick our necks out here and say this is the one book
every surfer should read. You're simply not going to pick up alot of this information with all the water time in the world - but with it you almost certainly
are going to score more waves and have a better understanding of the ocean.
