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The perfect wave is every surfer's dream. But where does that wave come from, and what makes it perfect? No two waves that have broken anywhere in the world have ever been the same: each one is unique. Behind every wave on every beach is a long story involving the entire planet, and going back into the depths of time. The waves we ride are the result of oceanic storms, which depend upon atmospheric patterns that circle the globe and oscillate over seasons, years and decades. when a wave breaks, its size and shape also depends on the shape of the coast, moulded over thousands of years, but changing every day. As surfers, we should appreciate just how complex and delicate these and other natural systems are.
The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates describes, from a surfer's point of view, the Earth's natural systems and the way they control the size and shape of the waves we ride. It explains how our own interference with those systems is feeding back and affecting our lives as coastal dwellers. Everything is explained in Layman's terms, with clear illustrations; so all you need to enjoy this book is curiosity, a love for the coast, and a little of that child-like wonder.
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this is a very technical book, a serious study text book rammed with facts, graphs, diagrams and detail. Not a useful/fun book that you can easily flick through, look at the photos and learn something interesting. It is a bit too advanced and complicated for the average surfer like me. But probably excellent for those seriously studying the subject matter. I am glad to have it in my collection but this is not a coffee table book it is one to be taken seriously.
Nice book, easy to understand.
A fantastic book wich contains vary important knowledge for surfing
havent had a chance to read it yet but assume that like surf science it assumes to big a knowledge base.
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